Horizontal corset ~1860s to ~1870s – construction (Part 2)

Sorry that this post is a day late! I was super busy yesterday and had no time to finish it on time…

Last week I started three corsets based on exactly the same pattern. I have no instructions but I still wanted to give the pattern a try.
You can read *here* the first post about the corsets where I discussed the pattern and how I cut the corsets.

Today we‘re going to look at the construction of the corsets. Every corset only has 2 horizontal seams on each side. I added straight strips of fabric to the center front and back to sew in the busk and make the back lacing. So in total we have 4 construction seams on each side excluding the channel seams. I finished the horizontal seams with flat felled seams on all three corsets!

Center front = grain line
The easiest corset to sew was this one. The seams eased in very smoothly and I had no problems at all.

Center back = grain line
This one was also pretty easy to sew but it was a bit more difficult to ease everything in. I still was able to sew the seams without any tucks or weird bumps.

Cut like the pattern was laid out
This corset was the hardest to sew. It was almost impossible to ease in the seams perfectly because they were pretty much on a straight grain. Especially the upper seams was hard to sew! I had a few little tucks and bumps and I ripped the seam apart and was able to get one side perfect but the other one still had a little tuck after sewing it again. Flat felling the seams was also a little bit more challenging because the seam allowance didn’t want to cooperate like the other ones. You still see the little tucks, but I don’t mind them too much because this is exactly why I’m making three corsets 😀

After doing this I started to set in the busks and sewing the back closure. For this I used straight cut fabric strips for all three corsets. This was pretty easy to make with all corsets and it did not differ at all which one I made.
You can also see now, that the channel widths of the pattern do not fit together. Some are pretty much off! But still, the pattern size is correct since I double checked again.

Since I forgot that I don’t have enough golden grommets at home (I have exactly 4 left) I again have to wait until new ones arrive.
In the meantime I need to decide with which fabric I want to sew the boning channels, how I want to finish the top and bottom edge and which lacing I want to use.

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